The Hitachi-SU Tech Main Page

My Datsun 510 5 Door

This page is a collection of resources, links, and information to lead you to a better understanding of the SU carburetor. Scroll down the page, or hit one of the anchors below:

Haystack | Datsun SU Needle Specifications

Datsun SU Needle Graph | Links | Dome Spring Rate Info

Float Adjustments | Personal Experiences and Mods

Air/Fuel Ratio Monitor | Flat-Top SU Page

SU Rebuilding | SU References


Haystack (Updated with Datsun needles)

The Haystack SU Needle program is a DOS based collection of small utilities used to fine tune your needle selection. This process works best if you have access to an exhaust-gas analyzer (or exhaust temperature gauge) as you will need to know if/where your engine is running rich and/or lean. Using the Haystack programs, you can find needles with richer or leaner characteristics to suit your needs. Refer to the Haystack manual for further information.

I have used the ADD feature of Haystack to input some of the known Datsun-supplied SU needles. The accuracy of the data is low (see explanation) because of the limited information (and questionable accuracy) of the specs for Datsun SU needles. However, the added Datsun data can be used as a general guideline in your tuning efforts if you are comparing only Datsun needles.

HAYSTACK (c) copyright 1990, 1991, 1992.

Haystack SU Needle Program

(zip file ~130K)

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Links

A link to a web page created from the Datsun Service Manual for Hitachi-SUs. Excellent site, comprehensive information and great graphics! Datsuns@istar

 

A link to the Team.Net website, with a truer approach to SU tuning from our British friends.

 

Two additional guides to tuning your SUs. These are your basic get-them-running articles. Definitely a must-read if you will be exploring your new carbs...

 

A link to Marc Sayer's Z-Car Magazine Tech site, including excerpts from a discussion on the Z Car List about tuning SUs.

 

A link to the Z Therapy site, which remanufactures SU carburetors.

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Dome Spring Rate Calculation

Another method of fine-tuning your SU carbs, especially with a modified motor, is changing the dome spring for a stiffer or softer spring. A stiffer spring will resist the upward movement of the piston, as does higher weight oil/fluid in the dampeners. This resistance to upward movement of the piston provides a degree of fuel enrichment for acceleration. However, the weight of the oil in the dampeners does not affect the fall of the piston, while a stiffer or softer dome spring will. This is just another variable along the path of perfecting your SU setup. And you thought SUs were simple...

I have calculated the approximate spring rate for my dome springs. These measurements are based on a dome spring from a set of 38mm flat-top Hitachi-SUs. You may download the Excel spreadsheet if you wish to enter your own information.

Spring Rate for 38mm Flat-Top Springs
Number of coils 28.500
Coil diameter 0.938
Wire O.D. 0.035
Free length 4.000
lbs/in= 0.096

Rating a dome spring by pounds per inch seems a little hokey. British dome springs are rated in ounces, so multiply your result by 16 to get a comparable number. 0.096 x 16 = ~1.5 oz/in.

Typical British dome spring rates: This information was gained from MiniMania.

As you can see, the calculated rate for my dome springs is pretty low. I have a set of new Z dome springs (#16346-12210 @ $8 ea.), and they are identical to my 38mm springs. See the Z Dome Spring Experiment page to find out what's up with that.

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Float Adjustments

A critical, yet often overlooked area of SU carbs is the proper setting of the floats. This is a very important step! Setting the float level so that you don't run out of gas while driving will get you from point A to point B, but if you're going to do it, why not do it right?

Well, because it can be a pain in the butt. However, if your float levels are not set correctly, the level of fuel in the nozzles will not be correct either, exposing more or less of the needle than is optimum (more info). If you have visited the SU links above, you will have read a few different methods for setting the floats. I recommend using a float gauge (if you have one) or some method of visual inspection of the float level:

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